Is It Safe To Shoot?
The conversation usually goes like this:
Customer: “Hello, I have an old Damascus barreled shotgun I would like to shoot. I am interested in your black powder shot shells. They will be safe to shoot in it right?”
Republic Metallic: “Did you have it checked by a licensed gunsmith familiar with antique shotguns to see if it’s safe to shoot?”
Customer: ”Yup, the fellow over at XYZ Gun Shop said it was just fine. He knows shotguns inside and out. It has those proof marks on too.”
So what does that mean? Checked by a licensed gunsmith familiar with antique shotguns? How does he in fact check it? How many of us actually know what the gunsmith is looking for and how he goes about it? Do we even know if he knows what he’s looking for?
Many years ago I traded for a sweet old double barrel shotgun. It was a wonderful piece. Not very collectable but in decent shape. I headed the above advice and showed up at my local gunsmith. He looked it over with what appeared to be a knowledgeable eye, broke the action open, peered down the bores, snapped it shut and wiggled it back and forth to test for tightness. Then he tested the safety (it was hammerless) and handed it back to me. “Yup, that’s a fine gun. Shoot it and enjoy it! Need shells?” I bought some and walked out happy as could be. Soon I was out at the range trying it out. That’s when I realized he had sold me the wrong size shells! I was so convinced of his knowledge I had thought that I had mistaken the gauge! Then I began to wonder if he really knew how to checkout an old shotgun. After a bit of research it was clear he did not. But at the time I didn’t know either.
There are a factors your gunsmith must consider to determine if you have a shotgun that’s safe to shoot. First, don’t assume that the gun is safe to shoot if the barrel is not Damascus steel. In fact a Damascus steel barrel, when new, was considered to be stronger then a comparable fluid steel barrel. This was born out during a series of trials at the Birmingham Proof House. However, over time, wear and tear and through plain honest use the fluid steel barrel holds its strength better. For instance, a Damascus steel barrel, to quote W.W. Greener, “will not stand a blow given sideways. A knock against a hard substance will dent one barrel and frequently break the other in the weld.” This is a good thing to keep in mind considering that a Damascus barrel is one solid mass of welds from breech to muzzle. It also highlights the importance of checking for dents that would have resulted from a sideways blow. This does not mean an old fluid steel barrel is automatically assumed to be safe. We must keep in mind that as a barrel ages, regardless of how or of what material it was made of, will looses strength. Each time the gun is fired the barrel expands and contracts. Over time this weakens the barrel.
So how do we check a Damascus barrel for broken or fractured welds? This is were we leave the gunsmith’s shop and head over to the automotive machine shop. What’s a 120 year old gun barrel and a 500 hp hemi V8 have in common? Both should have been magna fluxed. This is a non-destructive process that allows any fractures or broken welds to become visible. If any show up then the gun becomes a wall hanger or gets re-barreled.
Now, let’s look at the proof marks if any. (Please note that American made guns with American made barrels, Such as those of L.C. Smith or Parker will not have proof marks. However data for L.C. Smiths and Parkers is available to a certain extent through such organizations as the Parker Gun and L.C. Smith Collectors Associations.) Ah yes there they are! That means it safe to shoot right? Wrong! All it means (at this point) is that the barrels when new were proofed. That’s it. We need to do a bit more research before we head out looking for upland game.
If we search a bit these funny markings will tell us a lot and help determine whether we want to risk life and limb shooting this particular firearm. In particular what country the barrels were made in and were it was proofed. More importantly we can tell if it’s been proofed for black powder or for nitro loads or even if it’s been re-proofed and to what load and pressure.
If we look up the proof marks in “The Standard Directory of Proof Marks” (Wirnsberger & Steindler) it provides us with the pressure/load that particular barrel had to endure to pass proof. (Did the gunsmith at XYZ Gun Shop have this book?)
WARNING:
THE PROOF LOAD IS NOT THE MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE LOAD. IT IS THE MAXIMUM LOAD THE BARREL WAS REQUIRED TO WITHSTAND DURING PROOF TESTING TO DETERMINE THE INTEGRITY OF THE BARREL AT THE TIME OF MANUFACTURE OR RE-PROOF. THE ACTUAL MAXIMUM SAFE SERVICE LOAD WILL BE MUCH LOWER. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THE MAXIMUM SERVICE LOAD BE EXCEEDED!
For instance, in “The Gun and it’s Development” Ninth Edition by W.W. Greener, on page 305 the Birmingham Proof House lists the provisional proof for a 10 gauge at 12-3/4 drams of black powder and 711 grains of shot. The definitive proof is listed at 8-1/2 drams and 2-1/8 oz of shot while the service charge is listed at 4-1/4 drams with 1-5/8 oz. of Shot. The proof marks not only tell us the proof loads but also help the gunsmith to determine a safe service load. Keep in mind that every country that required proofing of gun barrels had different standards.
WARNING:
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD MODERN SMOKELESS LOADS, NO MATTER HOW LIGHT, BE USED IN A FIREARM DESIGNED OR PROOFED FOR BLACK POWDER. NOR SHOULD MODERN MAGNUM LOADS BE USED IN A FIREARM DESIGNED FOR EARLY NITRO LOADS.
WE CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH THE IMPORTANCE OF USING PROPER AMMUNITION THAT THE FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY DESIGNED TO SHOOT AND THAT THE CONDITION OF THE FIREARM ALLOWS TO BE SHOT SAFELY.
Make sure your gunsmith checks the chamber length as well. Have the chambers been lengthened or the forcing cone reamed? This too can affect barrel strength. 12 gauge chambers with length of 2-1/2”, 2-5/8” were common. Many have been lengthened to use modern 2-3/4” hulls. Did the gunsmith at XYZ Gun Shop measure the chambers? Did he check to see if they had been lengthened? This can pose a problem because data for the original configuration may not be available. However, in some cases the proof marks may provide this information.
In regards to shell length, WW. Greener advised; "Shooting long cases, as 2 3/4" case in 2 5/8" chamber, increases the pressures enormously; with 47 grains of nitro the pressures registered were DOUBLE those registered with cases of the proper length." Not to mention deformed pellets and a compromised pattern.
Another item that needs to be checked is the bore. It should be measured to determine if it’s been back bored to remove rust and pitting. Not just eyeballed. The exterior of the barrels should be measured and examined closely for pitting and for bulges. The Birmingham Proof House failed barrels that bulged 1/100” around the circumference. Try detecting that with the naked eye.
Barrel wall thickness gauge
One area that can’t be examined is under the rib. Acid left over from the soldering process can get trapped between the barrels. This is normal but if exposed to moisture it can cause corrosion. It’s important that the rib is tight and there are no gaps. Damascus barrels must never be shot if they are dented. Again, this could raise pressures and without magna fluxing we have no way of knowing if a weld is compromised.
Finally, have your gunsmith check the headspace as well. If the action locks up loose or there is excessive headspace this can make the gun kick hard and increase pressure. Something we want to avoid. As an added measure of security you can have the barrel re-proofed. However, there are no proof houses in the United States, which makes this a costly but worthwhile option. For more information on re-proofing, contact:
Birmingham Proof House
Banbury Street
Birmingham B5 5RH, England
After reading this you are probably looking at your old SxS wondering how you managed to survive shooting it all these years. You’re probably ready to pack it away in the back of the gun vault. Our advice is don’t be too hasty. Many of these fine old guns are indeed being safely shot and enjoyed by folks who understand the condition of their firearms and use only the proper loads they were designed for and that the condition of the firearm allows to shoot safely. If you have any doubt about whether your firearm is safe to shoot take it to a qualified gunsmith familiar with antique shotguns. Armed with the knowledge you have just gained by reading this article you will indeed know what the gunsmith must do to accurately assess the condition of your gun. If he or she relies on the method my gunsmith used, as mentioned at the beginning of this article, walk out the door and find someone who will do a proper job.
Republic Metallic Cartridge Company
is not liable for injury and or damage resulting from the use of its products in firearms
equipped with damascus, twist steel or laminated barrels.